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The Hindu

Cities / The Hindu

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Where Kolkatas hilsa comes from and why its waters may shape its taste

Is Ganga hilsa really different from Padma hilsa? What is Gujarat hilsa doing in Kolkatas markets, and why did old Calcutta connoisseurs claim they could taste the stretch of river a fish came from? Following the hilsa from ocean to river to plate reveals a story of ecology, appetite and inherited taste

22 Sep 2026 8:12 am